AGELESS SKIN MED SPA

Fraxel, Thermage, acne, laser hair removal, skin resurfacing, Dermal fillers, Botox, Tattoo removal, facial wrinkles, Sclerotherapy, chemical peels, Restylane and many more skin care treatments and med spa service for local Cooper City, Davie, Plantation, and Weston patients

Skin Aging Articles and Tips and Tricks

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FIVE SIMPLE YET PROVEN WAYS TO MAKE YOUR SKIN LOOK 5-10 YEARS YOUNGER
by Erin Owoc, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner

There is a lot of hype around skin procedures and skin products that are touted to bring us the “fountain of youth”. This article summarizes 5 simple yet research proven ways to give you a more youthful appearance. This article is not for women only as men represented over a 13% growth in cosmetic procedures last year. So this article can also be very informative for any man wanting to look his best.

RELAX The ability to relax the muscles around your forehead, between your eyes and by your crow’s feet to “smooth out” these wrinkles using BOTOX® is extremely effective. BOTOX® Cosmetic is a very quick procedure that has no down time. It is best to choose a medical practitioner that has artistic skills and listens to what expectations you may have to be able to achieve your desired results. Make sure your medical practitioner uses only FDA approved ALLERGAN (YES YOU MUST ASK THAT) and start with 1 or 2 treated areas for best results depending on your individual desires. The results from BOTOX® typically last 3-4 months.

REFILL There is a proven cure to virtually eliminate the deep lines around your nasolabial folds (lines between your nose and mouth) and other moderate to severe facial folds on your face, to enhance the facial contouring and to physically enhance the lips. This is commonly referred to as “fillers”. The three most popular dermal fillers on the market are; Restylane, Perlane and Juvederm. The most popular is Restylane because it has been around the longest. Newer fillers such as, Juvederm will last longer, however selecting a filler with your medical practitioner will depend on area treated and desired outcome.

REJUVENATE If you are serious about removing old acne scars, skin pigmentation and fine wrinkles, FRAXEL® will well be worth the investment. FRAXEL® is a non-ablative fractional laser resurfacing of your skin. I have personally seen incredible results with FRAXEL® laser resurfacing. You can generally return to work right afterwards (although your face will be look a little sunburn) and the results permanently improve the appearance of your skin. For best results, generally 2-3 procedures are required.

REVITALIZE For healthy, youthful looking skin it is extremely important to have a deep cleansing routine, generally in the form of medical facials and microdermabrasion in conjunction with LED light therapy. LED light therapy, specifically REVITALIGHT®, has been FDA cleared for the treatment of ACNE. REVITALIGHT® is a safe and effective use of advanced light technology designed to diminish the visible appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, age spots by promoting “collagen firmness”. Chemical peels are another very fast and effective “revitalizing” procedure that stimulate the production of new skin cells, which reduce fine lines, tighten and tone, help with scarring and improves skin discoloration.

REPLENISH Undergoing any of the procedures above will take years off the look of your skin. However combining these with a home maintenance plan using medical grade skin care products and a healthy diet including skin supplements, will not only magnify the effects of these procedures, but they will also extend the life of the procedure. We have seen the best results with medical grade products such as Glytone‘and SkinMedica‘. And to take it a step further to maximize your skin with a “beauty in and out” product, we highly recommend DermaVio® Anti-Aging Solution especially for fine lines and those hard to treat dark circles above your eyes.

Erin Owoc has been practicing cosmetic dermatology for the last 7 years in Florida. An accomplished medical professional, Erin continually enhances her knowledge and skills through advanced training in the latest aesthetic techniques and laser technology. Erin received her bachelor’s degree from the Univ. of Florida & her master’s degree from the Univ. of South Florida. Erin can be reached at (954) 680-8330 or Erin@HaveAgelessSkin.com.

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LOOK YEARS YOUNGER WITH FRAXEL®
Erin Owoc, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner

After last month’s article, “Five Simple Yet Proven Ways to Make Your Skin Look 5-10 Years Younger” I’ve received numerous calls from people wanting more information on Fraxel® laser treatments. Fraxel® is a safe, non-invasive laser treatment that improves the appearance of your skin by targeting a “fraction” of your skin at a time. Because of this innovative technology, there is no downtime compared with the older technology of laser resurfacing which required weeks of healing. Fraxel® is the most effective treatment for the person wanting to improve skin texture, skin tone, and reduce pore size. It is very effective on eliminating skin hyperpigmentation or “brown spots” and smoothing wrinkles, especially around the eyes. Fraxel® can also be used on the neck, chest, and hands very safely and effectively.

Another exciting application of Fraxel® is in the improvement of acne scars. In the past, all we had to offer a patient with acne scars was skin abrasion or the old technology of laser resurfacing, which both had a lot of downtime and a lot of risks associated with those procedures. Seeing the results of Fraxel® treatments to acne scars is very rewarding. Depending on your desired results (eliminating hyperpigmentation, reducing wrinkles, softening acne scars) the number of treatments needed varies. Fewer treatments are needed to eliminate brown spots as opposed to treating acne scars. Results are both immediate and progressive. You will see an improvement in your skin after the first treatment but your skin will continually improve 2-3 months after your last treatment. The Fraxel ® results I have seen are well worth the investment.

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The Truth About Laser Hair and Tattoo Removal
by Erin Owoc, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner

I have been performing laser hair and tattoo removal over the past 7 years and would like to share with you my experiences by answering questions my patients commonly ask:

HAIR REMOVAL

What is the difference between IPL and a Laser for hair removal?
A laser (specifically a Candela GentleLASE 755nm alexandrite laser) delivers light at one specific wavelength, which is specific for hair. The energy that is used is much more effective and safer in destroying the hair follicle. An IPL machine (which is not a laser) delivers a wide range of wavelengths and thus has a higher risk in damaging skin at higher energy levels. The results are not even comparable. A true “laser” is so much more effective at removing hair than an IPL. A lot of people that have received treatments elsewhere ask why they have had fifteen treatments and still have a lot of hair. It is either because of an IPL device or lack of skill in the practitioner operating the laser.

How many times do I need to go back and why?
Hair has three phases in the growth cycle and not all of your hair is in the same phase at the same time. The hair follicle must be in the active growth state for the laser to be effective. So no matter if you spend one session for 10 hours, you can never destroy all of the hair follicles in one visit. The average number of treatments is 4. The time for each visit depends on the area treated. On average it is a 15-minute treatment time.

Is it painful?
No. There is mild discomfort but most people are able to easily go through it with no topical anesthesia. The Candela laser we use has a cooling device built in and we also offer topical anesthesia if the person prefers it.

Does it remove hair forever?
Absolutely. And as long as you commit to the correct number of procedures, we guarantee it.

TATTOO REMOVAL

Does is work and how many times do I need the procedure done?
Again, like above assuming you have the correct laser built specifically for Tattoo removal, the results are very good. How many treatments you will need depends on the size of the tattoo, the quality of the tattoo (amateur versus professional), age of the tattoo, and the number of colors in the tattoo.

What colors are most difficult and will I scar?
Black ink is the easiest to remove while green and yellow are the hardest. There is a risk of the skin being hypopigmented (lighter color) in that area. How you will heal has many factors. Everyone heals different. It depends on the area treated, how many treatments you need, and your skin’s own pigmentation.

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Are Your Skin Care Products Effective?
Erin Owoc, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner
Vic Owoc, MBA, President, Ageless Research Labs

It goes without saying that great skin is only possible with the right kind of skin care products. The questions that everyone has are “Which products work?” and “What should I be using?” We always recommend medical grade skin care products because they provide a level of treatment well beyond that of traditional over-the-counter skin care treatments. Medical grade skin care products have the ability to reverse past damage to skin, fight existing skin problems, and protect skin from future damage. In addition, most people do not understand that over the counter products are not required to have clinical studies performed on their products. Only “medical grade” products (available only at a doctor’s office or a med spa) must go through an extensive testing and approval processes to ensure its effectiveness – so buyer beware. There are a couple of critical steps necessary to keep your skin looking its best.

Cleanse: Cleansers should be customized to a person’s specific skin requirements and range from gentle cleansers to exfoliating cleansers. As we get older our collagen replenishment process (the process that makes our skin tight and toned) reduces year after year. However, if you are consistently stimulating your skin with at house treatments, you can speed up this replenishment process to levels back when you were in your 20’s. Exfoliating products found in cleansers and toners, such as Glytone® Mild Gel Wash, contain glycolic acids which rapidly remove dead skin cells and renew the skin, thus improving the skin’s texture and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. For some people, incorporating a scrub or a mask once a week is optimal in deep cleaning the skin and in the exfoliation process

Treat: After properly cleansing the skin, the next step would be to treat the skin. Two new technologies have raised the bar in anti-aging skin care products. One is found in SkinMedica’s ™ TNS products. They contain human growth factors that help the skin repair and regenerate itself. The other is brand new L-hydroxyproline which is found in DermaVio® products. This amino acid is found in your skin and is clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles while stimulating collagen formation in your skin. We have also found that DermaVio® also extends the life of BOTOX® with its tightening peptides in an “in” capsules and “out” serum application. Retinoids, or retinoic acid, has also been used successfully to treat acne, improve surface skin texture, reduce irregular pigmentation, and increase dermal collagen. It is been widely suggested that everyone should be on a retinoid (from teenagers with acne to adults with aging skin) because of the wonderful benefits of this product.

Existing skin problems can be treated with the right products. Products used to treat acne focus on deep cleaning, treating bacteria that causes acne, and reducing breakouts and surface oil. Products used to treat rosacea (or skin that is prone to redness), such as Avene® Diroseal, focus on more gentle cleansers and lotions that reduce redness and protect the skin. Products used to treat hyperpigmentation typically contain exfoliants and Hydroquinone. SkinMedica’s™ TNS Hyperpigmentation is a great way to improve the visible signs of skin aging – hyperpigmentation, melasma, photodamage, fine lines, wrinkles, and sallowness.

Hydrate and Protect: After the skin is cleansed and treated, the next step is to hydrate and protect. Properly moisturizing the skin helps restore hydration and revitalize skin tone and texture. You can properly moisturize the skin even in oil-prone skin if proper product is used. You can hydrate and protect in one step with a good moisturizer that contains sunscreen. A good sunscreen should give you a broad spectrum of protection against both UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) rays.

In summary, it is possible to restore vitality and youthfulness to your skin through a daily regimen of medical grade skin care products. With the proper skin care information, the advice of a specialist, and the right products, you can achieve smoother, clearer, younger-looking skin.

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BOTOX® & DERMAL FILLERS® – Is it for me?
by Erin Owoc, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner

BOTOX® Are you starting to pay more attention to the wrinkles across your forehead, the lines between your eyes, or your crow’s feet? If those areas are starting to bother you, BOTOX® might be the answer for you. BOTOX® provides the ability to relax the muscles around your forehead, between your eyes and by your crow’s feet to “smooth out” these wrinkles and is extremely effective. BOTOX® Cosmetic is a very safe and quick procedure that has no down time and is virtually painless. It is best to choose a medical practitioner that has artistic skills and listens to what expectations you may have to be able to achieve your desired results. Make sure your medical practitioner uses only FDA approved ALLERGAN. (YES YOU MUST ASK THAT.)

You will start seeing results within 7 days and the results from BOTOX® typically last 3-4 months. I get asked a lot on what age someone concerned about their wrinkles should start using BOTOX®. Some people start aging very early (especially if they have been in the sun a lot or a smoker). My answer is generally when you start seeing the lines “at rest”, which means you are starting to see the lines while having no facial expression. Right when you start seeing the lines would be a good time to start using BOTOX® to prevent the “etching” in your skin and to avoid deep wrinkles that would follow. I am also asked quite often about the safety concerns on injecting BOTOX® in your skin. BOTOX® is quite safe and is FDA approved. The average cost per area is $300-$380.
FILLERS Are you starting to notice the lines running between your nose and your mouth? If so, dermal fillers might be the answer for you. As our skin ages, the dermis gradually loses its major constituents: collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Collagen acts as the major support protein for our skin; elastin allows our skin to stay firm and resist wrinkles; hyaluronic acid helps to trap water and add volume and shape to our skin. A Dermal Filler a compound made up of Hyaluronic Acid that is a proven cure to virtually eliminate the deep lines around your nasolabial folds (lines between your nose and mouth) and other moderate to severe facial folds on your face. Dermal Fillers also enhance the facial contouring and can physically enhance the lips. Because Hyaluronic Acid occurs naturally in the body, it dissolves naturally with time and requires no allergy testing prior to treatment.

The three most popular dermal fillers on the market are; Restylane®, Perlane® and Juvederm®. The most popular is Restylane® because it has been around the longest. Juvederm® is quickly gaining popularity because of it’s ability to last longer. However selecting a filler with your medical practitioner will depend on area treated and desired outcome. Most results last up to six months to a little over a year. The most common side effect is a little bruising after the injections. Some mild burning and stinging is normal and quickly resolves. Injection of fillers usually requires the use of either a topical numbing cream or a local injection of numbing medication. Then, using a small needle, the dermal filler is injected into each wrinkle or scar that requires treatment. The average cost for Restylane® treatment is $600 per area.

The use of BOTOX® and/or Dermal Fillers are proven to truly take many years off the age of your face and are shown to be very safe when administered by an experienced medical practitioner.

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The Best Kept Secret for Youthful Looking Skin
by Erin Owoc, ARNP-C, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner

I have been often asked if I had just $100, what I would spend it on to make my skin look younger and to improve fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. Hands down it would be a light chemical peel. Not only is it an inexpensive way to make your skin look rejuvenated, it is also a quick procedure. Typically a chemical peel only takes 15 minutes, which is why they are sometimes called “lunch time peels” and are virtually pain free.

As we age, the accumulated effects of sun exposure, environmental pollutants, acne, and scarring can damage our skin and cause us to look older than we are. Chemical peels are topically applied acids that aid in the restoration and rejuvenation of the skin's surface. Chemical peels stimulate the production of new cells which improve fine lines, tighten and tone the skin, help with acne scarring, and improve discoloration due to sun-damage, age spots and uneven pigmentation. The condition of the skin and healing times vary depending upon the strength of the peel performed.

Another fantastic application of a light chemical peel is using it to treat the skin on the neck, décolleté (chest), and hands. These areas of the body also show signs of aging and should not be forgotten in the pursuit of youthful looking skin.

Chemical peels vary according to their specific ingredients and strength. The actual depth of the peeling can also depend on other considerations such as how long the solutions remain on the skin and if they are lightly, heavily or vigorously applied. For light to medium uses, physicians use a solution known as AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid,) which include glycolic, lactic or fruit acid. AHA treatments may require a series of multiple applications with very minimal pain. Medium peels consist of TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and is stronger and peels the skin down to a greater depth.

Improvements from light AHA peels may be very subtle at first. You may detect a healthier glow to your skin. With continued treatments, you will notice a general improvement in the texture of your skin. The results of a medium TCA peel will be noticeably smoother and fresher-looking.
Chemical peels are a great way to have smoother, brighter-looking skin for holiday parties and family get-togethers. A consultation with your practitioner will determine the best type of chemical peel for you. I have personally witnessed hundreds of patients get incredible results, in a short amount of time, without breaking the bank with chemical peels.

Erin Owoc, ARNP-C has been practicing cosmetic dermatology for the last 7 years in Florida. Erin can be reached at (954) 680-8330 or Erin@HaveAgelessSkin.com.

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TIP: Here is a great stress-reliever: according to a recent study by researchers at the John Moores University in England…taking a siesta daily can actually help to decrease your risk of fatal heart attack…when you nap, your blood pressure naturally drops. Not that we need another excuse to snooze…but just think what this will do for your skin as well…mix a nap with the right products and you are on the road to your own fountain of youth.

TIP: Did you know that using a cotton pillowcase will cause wrinkles while you sleep? So get out there and buy yourself a soft satin pillowcase as satin allows your face to relax and give skin a chance to release the daily stresses – not to mention how luxurious satin feels against your skin – hmmm…sweet dreams of youth commence.

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News April, 2008...Amino Acids and the Natural Moisturizing Factor

Copyright 2008 by Virgo Publishing.
http://www.insidecosmeceuticals.com/
By: Somlynn Rorie

Skin care regimens tailored toward specific skin types and conditions have garnered interest among consumers who are leaning toward a more personalized approach in caring for their skin.

In an increasingly competitive marketplace, manufacturers are seeking the newest active ingredients, delivery systems and results that differentiate their products from the competition. The hot button resides in the most current research on amino acids and specific components of the skin, providing new opportunities and outlets for addressing pervasive skin conditions. Interestingly, the latest dermatologic research pulls back the layers and delves deep into the physiology and anatomy of skin. Instead of looking at solutions to these problems, researchers are uncovering the root causes behind dryness, dermatitis, allergies and reactions.

A FLESHY FOUNDATION

Skin consists of two main structural layers: the epidermis, the outer protective layer of the skin; and the deeper layer known as the dermis, which provides the skin’s structural support. The epidermis is made up of layers of cells in various stages of development, connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. At the base of the epidermis are reproductive cells known as basal cells. When these cells evolve and mature they move toward the outer skin layer, making room for new cells. As they reach the stratum corneum, the top layer of skin, the cells turn into corneocytes, cells that lack a nucleus and cellular structure. "Corneocytes are flat, hexagonal-shaped cells filled with water-retaining keratin proteins surrounded by a protein envelop and lipids," said Christina Marino, M.D., in a Washington State Department of Labor and Industries report, "Skin Physiology, Irritants, Dry Skin and Moisturizers." "The cellular shape and the orientation of the keratin proteins add strength to the stratum corneum. There are 10 to 30 layers of stacked corneocytes." She added stacked bilayers of lipids surround the cells in the extracellular space, which helps form the natural physical and water-retaining barrier of the skin.

Filaggrin, an essential protein in skin barrier function, is gaining attention as a vital component of healthy skin. It serves a key role in the process of forming a protective layer in the stratum corneum, and helps keep water in and foreign organisms out. As aging cells move toward the stratum corneum, the cells clump proteins into granules, which are then filled with filaggrin. Afterward, a complex of keratin proteins and filaggrin is produced to protect the filaggrin from proteolytic breakdown. As old cells move toward the stratum corneum, enzymes break down this complex, causing the filaggrin to reside outside of corneocytes, and the keratin inside the corneocytes, Marino explained, noting, "When the moisture content of the skin is decreased, specific proteolytic enzymes in the stratum corneum are triggered to further break down filaggrin into free amino acids."

exCel Cosmeuticals, manufacturer of the patented AFA™ formulation based on the body’s natural acid amino acids, added, "Filaggrin is metabolized in the epidermis into several acidic amino acids and these amino acids are the primary agents responsible for the skin’s ability to retain moisture."

Research suggests a lack of filaggrin can result in conditions such as dry skin (ichthyosis vulgaris) and atopic eczema, a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by a defective skin barrier function that affects 10 to 20 percent of children and 1 to 3 percent of adults in industrialized countries.1 University of Dundee, Scotland researchers, led by Irwin Mclean, found a defect in the filaggrin gene can cause dry skin, eczema, eczema-associated asthma and other allergies.2 Additionally, researchers from the National Jewish Medical and Research Center, Denver, investigated whether reduced filaggrin expression already existed in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD), or if the filaggrin was modulated as a response to atopic inflammation. They concluded after evaluating 69 subjects that patients with AD have an acquired defect in filaggrin expression that can be modulated by the atopic inflammatory response.3

Current topical solutions for these conditions consist of emollients and ointments used to keep the skin moist, as well as anti-inflammatories to treat inflammation. New cosmeceutical ingredients also hold promise in helping ease the symptoms or lower the risk of eczema. For example, a study published in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology found mothers taking probiotic supplementation during pregnancy and providing young infants with Lactobacillus reuteri after birth could reduce the incidence of eczema.4 Another study suggested supplementation with the omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) may offer bioactive benefits for atopic eczema sufferers.5

THE NATURAL MOISTURIZING FACTOR

In the course of the last few decades, a group of compounds, consisting of free amino acids (some of which are broken down filaggrins), lactic acid, urea and salts, have been identified as key nutrients in attracting and retaining water, which are responsible for maintaining a healthy balance for moist and pliable skin. These components, as well as ingredients that mimic their actions, are often referred to as the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). "The natural moisturizing factor is an integral component of the horny layer of the skin," said Bruce Gesslein, technical manager, Ajinomoto USA Inc., Specialty Chemicals Division. "The horny layer is comprised of about 30 percent NMF, 10 percent lipids and 60 percent PCA [pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, an amino acid-derived component]. The NMF is responsible for maintaining moisture and suppleness of the skin. It has been shown that in unhealthy and damaged skin, the NMF is depleted to an extent."

NMF components absorb water from outside elements and combine the liquid with its own water content, keeping the outer layer of the stratum corneum hydrated. Interestingly, because these compounds are water soluble, overhydration can make the skin drier. In a study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, researchers investigated the specific influences of NMF components other than amino acids and found seasonal changes in the physical properties of the stratum corneum from summer to winter were accompanied by significant decreases in the levels of lactate, potassium, sodium and chloride.6 Lactate and potassium were the two components found to correlate significantly with the state of hydration, stiffness and pH level. Moreover, potassium lactate restored the stratum corneum hydration state decreased by extraction of NMF, suggesting lactate and potassium may play roles in maintaining the physical properties of the stratum corneum.

When the NMF content is reduced, a variety of complications can occur, ranging from tough skin and flaking to wrinkles. A prolonged stratum corneum malfunction can weaken the skin’s intercellular matrix.7,8 A variety of constituents such as amino acids, proteins, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, fatty acids, linoleic acid are just a few elements that work in keeping the skin moisturized.

WATER RETENTION

Amino acids are fundamental constituents of the 100,000 different proteins found in the human body. The sequence of amino acids determines the unique properties of each protein. If one essential amino acid is missing, the protein cannot be formed. Each protein is composed of different quantities of amino acids, which include alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. Some of these amino acids, called non-essential, can be synthesized by the body; essential amino acids must be obtained from the diet. According to Ajinomoto, about half of the NMF in the skin is made up of amino acids and PCA derived from glutamate, another amino acid. "Skeletal muscles, organs, skin and hair are comprised of these proteins," Gesslein added. "They also occur in the free state in the skin where they act as moisturizers, enter into metabolic cycles and are essential for health and life."

Yoichiro Sugimura, director of business development, Kyowa Hakko Kogyo, added: "Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. Skin is made up mostly of collagen, and collagen of protein. Hence, amino acids work as basic structure components of the skin."

According to in vitro and in vivo clinical research, Kyowa found a certain amino acid, L-hydroxproline (as Lumistor®, from Kyowa Hakko), stimulates collagen synthesis, increases skin moisture and has an anti-wrinkling affect. "In other words, it is not just a ‘passive’ building block, but a ‘proactive’ cosmeceutical, too," Sugimura said, adding L-hydroxproline works topically and internally to achieve an anti-wrinkling result.

Amino acids function on several levels. "Amino acids are important components of the skin and the NMF," Gesslein said. "They have various functions including the promotion of collagen production, modulating micro-circulation, and keeping the skin moisturized and supple. By working both on and in the skin, the effects can be maximized."

When used as ingredients within cosmetics, amino acids most often serve as humectants or water-binding agents. They’ve also been suggested to enhance the bioavailability of minerals, according to Albion Advanced Nutrition. However, recent discoveries have suggested amino acids may possess both antioxidant and wound-healing properties. AGI Dermatics, for example, released comparative data that claimed its L-ergothioneine, an exclusive natural amino acid used in topical applications, is a powerful antioxidant that protects against oxidative damage and reduces ultraviolet (UV)-induced hydrogen peroxide generation.9

Collagen, a key protein found in connective tissues, provides structure and strength to these tissues. Ajinimoto noted collagen actually consists of various amino acids and, when used as a cosmetic ingredient, keeps the skin supple. According to Ajinomoto, the administration of the amino acid arginine promotes the regeneration of skin due to its enhanced collagen synthesis in the dermis, and the involvement of glutamine and arginine may participate in the synthesis of collagen and elastin10—the bundles of protein that allow the skin to stretch and snap back to its original state.

The NMF factor continues to serve as inspiration for new research and ingredient innovations. While amino acids in general have been used in moisturizing creams and anti-aging properties for quite some time, combination amino acids hold promise as potential cosmeceutical ingredients. Kyowa, for example, is focusing on di-peptides, molecules comprised of two amino acids joined by a peptide bond. According to Sugimura, di-peptides yield a completely different physiological effect from that of the two component amino acids. Kyowa’s Alanyl-Glutamine acts as an energy source for cells, vitalizing the skin and offering collagen synthesis ability.

Gesslein noted more personal care products will feature amino acids in their ingredient profile: "Individual amino acids, especially optimized combinations of amino acids, to deliver specific functions will continue to grow. Since these materials can be easily formulated in personal care products and produce real consumer perceptible effects, amino acids will play a key ingredient now and in the future."

The NMF Glossary

Amino acids, lipids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid are similar in the way they serve as building blocks for the skin.

Lipids cannot penetrate the skin, so they provide a cover layer and protect skin from external environmental pollutants.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids composed of sphignolipids and fatty acids. They form bilayers that help the skin maintain moisture and recover from damage—especially good for the skin membrane.

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan found in connective tissue and epithelial cells. It is used mainly as a topical moisturizer since its molecular weight is too large to penetrate the skin surface. It has an extremely high water retention capacity and can capture moisture internally and from the outside environment.

References

1. Schultz-Larson FV, et al. “Epidemiology of atopic dermatitis” (Immunol Allergy Clin North Am. 2002; 22:1-24).

2. Mclean, Irwin, et al. “Comprehensive analysis of the gene encoding filaggrin uncovers prevalent and rare mutations in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic eczema” (Nature Genetics. 2007; 39” 650-54).

3. Howell MD, et al. “Cytokine modulation of atopic dermatitis filaggrin skin expression” (J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2007; 120: 150-5).

4. Abrahamsson TR, et al. “Probiotics in prevention of IgE-associated eczema: a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial” (J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2007;119(5):1174-80).

5. Koch C, et al. “Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) supplementation in atopic eczema: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial” (Br J Dermatol. 2007; OnlineEarly: doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2007.08430.x).

6. Nakagawa N, et al. “Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium) content and the physical properties of the stratum corneum in healthy subjects” (J Inv Dermat.2004; 122: 755-63).

7. Sakai S, et al. “Characterization of the physical properties of the stratum corneum by a new tactile sensor” (Skin Res Technol. 2000; 6(3): 128-134).

8. Rawlings AV, et al. “Moisturization and skin barrier function” (Dermat Ther. 2004; 17(1): 43-48).

9. Ballon G, et al. “Glutamine increases collagen gene transcription in cultured human fibroblasts” (Biochim Biophys Acta. 1995; 1268(21): 311).

10. Dong KK, et al. “L-ergothioneine reduces UVA340-induced hydrogen peroxide in fibroblasts more efficiently than idebenone” (AGI Dermatics, 2007; presented at the 65th Annual Meeting of American Academy of Dermatology)

Ageless Skin Med Spa provides affordable laser hair removal, Fraxel, Thermage, Dermal Fillers, Chemical Peels, Facial Wrinkle Solutions, Sclerotherapy, Tattoo Removal, Acne treatment and services for local Cooper City, Davie, Plantation, Weston and surrounding customers. We also offer Spa gift certificates online.